Word of the Day: flexuous

flexuous (adj)

Sinuous; winding or bending; serpentine.

"Meanwhile Clare was meditating, verily. His thought had been unsuspended; he was becoming ill with thinking; eaten out with thinking, withered by thinking; scouraged out of all his former pulsating, flexuous domesticity. He walked about saying to himself, 'What's to be done - what's to be done?'...."
Thomas Hardy, Tess of the d'Urbervilles

The Long and Flexuous Road -- that might be a good alternate name for this blahg.

The most flexuous highway I've ever been on was Route 1 in California several years ago. A rough ride. It's a twisty cliff-side thoroughfare with scary drop-offs -- the ocean on one side and a sheer rock wall on the other, like something out of a Road Runner cartoon. The constant curves made me a bit carsick, but at least the drive up the coast was never boring: I feared we were about to plummet over the edge almost every minute, like that opening scene in It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World. The views of the Pacific were inspiring, though, so I recommend the route. Just don't eat first.

Mind the Gap 9 (London & England Trip)

Back in the U ess of Ayy.

Hung out at Heathrow for most of the day, because we had to check out at Reading University by 9:30 AM, our flight was booked for 8:30 PM, and we couldn't get on standby for an earlier flight without paying a lot more. And it wasn't practical to go back into London. So... did a lot of doodling in my notebook, some last-minute shopping, and "read" (listened to) The Pale King.

Noted more strange (to American eyes) signs, especially all the names and euphemisms for what we call (illogically) "the bathroom":

toilet (by far the most frequent)
W.C. (i.e., the "water closet")
Gents
Gentlemen
Ladies
loo (informal)
washroom -- this is what Virgin Atlantic flight attendants call it on the plane, though the doors say "lavatory". By the way, do ALL female Virgin Atlantic flight attendants have to have blonde hair, pulled back in a bun? That seems to be one of Branson's requirements.

Never saw a sign for "bathroom" or "restroom" in England. Don't recall seeing signs for simply "Men" and "Women", which we often see here, either -- though the international graphic symbols for the two genders were frequent, as in the US.

On the flight, watched The Fighter, which was nominated for best picture. Good movie.

So we're back, the house still stands (thanks Phil), and now we know what sarnies are.

Mind the Gap 8 (London & England Trip)

Today: Winchester Cathedral, which is in Hampshire, England, and is one of the largest (and I think oldest) cathedrals in the world. Attended the Sunday service there, or as much as we could stand; we left during the communion. The Cathedral is very goth and pretty interesting architecturally, and is where Jane Austen is buried. There's a nice plaque and window dedicated to her. The Cathedral is in the town of Winchester, which also contains The Great Hall, a medieval structure that is home to The Round Table of King Arthur, a hoax perpetrated by Henry VIII, apparently, but impressive nonetheless. It contains the names of all the knights of the round table in mostly unreadable gothic script and a nicely imagined portrait of Arthur (see link). Periodic drizzle while we toured the town.

Later, returned to Reading for some downtime, then went by "coach" (bus) to Henley-on-Thames for a dinner cruise with the Reading U. group, the final event of the reunion. This was the part of the Thames where the Henley Regatta is held. Lots of impressive river-front cottages and houses along the way, and the boat went through some river locks. Nice, although it rained off and on. Back to the US tomorrow.

By the way, there was a hit song (!) about Winchester Cathedral in the 1960s, which was recorded by Petula Clark, Frank Sinatra, and Rudy Vallee, among others. Here are the lyrics.

Mind the Gap 7 (London & England Trip)

Today was Shakespeare Saturday -- sort of. Took the "coach" from Reading back to London to attend the Globe Theatre's production of Anne Boleyn, a contemporary play (with many Shakespearean features) set in the time of Henry VIII. Sat on the second tier of the replica Globe, which is almost like Shakespeare's, and in almost exactly the same place, but slightly smaller and with an extension out from the main stage into the "groundlings" (standing room only) area to allow for more flexibility with actor's entrances and exits. The play, although not strictly historically accurate, was excellent, as was the acting. No matter where you sit (or stand) in this theater-in-the-round setting, you're never far from the stage, and the actors could be heard fine without any micing. There was live 16th-century-style musical accompaniment from a small band, too. Unfortunately, it was raining, but the main stage is covered and the sky cleared about half-way through the play. This experience was kind of a dream come true for a certain blogging English major....

Afterward, walked through the nearby Boroughs Market, a farmer's market type thing, which was closing, but there were still food samples out to try at many of the stalls. Then, ate at a pub with a downstairs eating area arranged as brick "cells" (alcoves) with bars on the windows between each "cell". Excellent fish and chips, and a pint.

Then, took a short walk to the Tate Modern and toured the third-floor art galleries devoted to the Surrealists. Being crazy about the Surrealists, this was another peak experience for your correspondent.

After, walked over the Millennium Bridge towards St. Paul's Cathedral and the tube station, snapping many pictures along the way. Took the tube to Paddington and the train back to Reading. Feet: tired.

Mind the Gap 6 (London & England Trip)

Now in Reading for my wyfe's reunion, staying on the university campus. In the morning, went by bus ("coach") to visit Waddeson Manor, "a country house in the village of Waddesdon, in Buckinghamshire, England. The house was built in the Neo-Renaissance style of a French château between 1874 and 1889 for Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild (1839–1898)", sayeth Wikipedia, source of all wisdom. Except to call this place a "house" is like calling a Rolls Royce a car. It puts, say, the White House to shame when it comes to priceless art objects, historic furniture, a bazillion rooms, and formal lawns and gardens. And all so the Baron could throw lavish weekend parties for the cream of society. A little overwhelming. Not what I would build for myself if I was a zillionaire. Give me a Manhattan pied-à-terre and an island cottage.

In the afternoon, stopped at Oxford. Visited the Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology. Lots of naked Greek statues and Pre-Raphaelite paintings. Took a bus tour of all the colleges ("Oxford is many colleges, not just one") and Gothic facades. Then ate dinner at the Eagle & Child pub, which is apparently where C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien hung out back in the day. Nice place to visit, Oxford, but I only feel a little bit smarter now.

Mind the Gap 5 (London Trip)

Keeping it short, because I need to go to bed. Today, met with some friendly colleagues at the UK offices of the company I work for, which I've never seen before. They're in a beautiful Victorian building and have a bright, cheerful, modern office with some (non-working?) antique fireplaces. Took photos. Then we took the Tube to Spitalfields (weird name) Market, to look over vendors of lots of interesting crafts and antique whatnot. Saw some stuffed foxes with bared teeth that cost 150 pounds each, for example. Then off to Paddington Station to catch a train to the suburb of Reading (pronounced Redding) for my wyfe's reunion -- she did a year abroad at the University of Reading while in college. Met many of her friends at the reception. Reading is an English town that, judging from the architecture, gives new meaning to the word "quaint". [By the way, it's actually midnight here as I'm writing this -- these posts have US time stamps.]

Mind the Gap 4 (London Trip)

More traipsing and Tubing: visited additional "Bentley" sites (including an antique shop with a nice talkative proprietor), did a little more of the bus tour, visited the Victoria and Albert museum briefly, went on a Beatles walking tour that took us to 3 Savile Row (again), Carnaby Street (which isn't what it used to be), and Abbey Road -- where I crossed the road right where "they" did, while stopping traffic. The studio there, which does not give tours, was covered with scaffolding and blue tarps. Lots of graffiti on the wall outside. We had high tea at the British Museum (it's not just broken-nosed statues there...), and finished up by attending the rock musical We Will Rock You tonight, based on the music of the group Queen. It was loud, flashy, and the audience was wildly enthusiastic. What happened to British reserve? Got back to the hotel and promptly blew a fuse in our room. Now waiting for the electrician as I type this on battery power. Cheers.....

Mind the Gap 3 (London Trip)

Set my watch by Big Ben on this tourism day. Saw a lot: Buckingham Palace, Parliament, St. Paul's Cathedral, walked on Tower Bridge, went for a cruise on the Thames while eating take-out fish and chips. In and around Piccadilly Circus, visited shops, restaurants, and dealerships with the Bentley name, which is my wyfe's surname, for photo ops. Various shop assistants, waiters, etc., found this quite amusing and were accommodating. Accordingly, sat in a Bentley automobile for the first time.

Sat on the front steps, briefly, of 3 Savile Row, former home of the Beatles and Apple Corps, where the 1969 Let It Be rooftop concert occurred. Not sure what's going on in the building now -- saw Beatles-related graffiti ("Strawberry Fields Forever!") around the doorway.

We went on the Jack the Ripper walking tour, an hour-and-a-half of ambulatory education about a series of stomach-churning murders from a very knowledgeable guide with an interesting theory about whodunit. I stood on the exact cobblestones where one of the victims was found, as the guide pointed out. "What an honor," I said. Parts of Victorian London, as we also learned yesterday, was not a nice place for many people, although I suspect Victorian New York wasn't better. Still, architecturally, central London was and is a Victorian wonderland.

Mind the Gap 2 (London Trip)

Spent some time in "The Clink" today -- literally; it's the name of a centuries-old London prison where people were manacled, beaten and tortured in various inventive ways. Went on a walking tour during which we heard much about the horrors of Victorian/Dickensian London -- knew about that already, but interesting to see the sites. Tour guide was terrific, a classic Brit type in her 70s (?) who did voices and walked very fast. Climbed many narrow, winding stairs to see the Operations Museum -- how they used to operate on people without anesthesia or sanitation, sawing off limbs, etc. Shivers. Lunched at Swiggins sandwich emporium. Visited the Southwark Cathedral and The Monument. More Tubing. Visited Starbucks and attempted to get online, but my wyfe can't remember her Starbucks password [eye roll]. The wi-fi doesn't work here at the hotel, despite what they promised, but luckily there is a (slow) public access connection. Had dinner at the famous Troubadour this evening, where there was a poetry reading going on. Loving the street and Tube signs: "Look Left", "Give Way" (i.e. "Yield"), "Mind Your Head", "60 Yards of Humps Ahead", and of course, "Way Out".

Mind the Gap 1 (London Trip)

Arrived safely in London via Virgin Atlantic. Finally figured out how to get online. Watched True Grit on the plane and listened to Rome (Danger Mouse). Severely jet-lagged. Lugged luggage up and down stairs at various Tube stations -- they don't believe in handicapped access here? "Way Out" -- indeed. Cars and highways are mirror images of home. Ate pub food and had some Brit beer -- good; not as fizzy as US beer. Visited the Tower of London. Hotel (more like a B and B) has a tub but no shower and no A.C., although it's pretty cool here. Wore a jacket outside tonight. The queen (my wyfe) has retired for the evening. Me too, soon. Still getting used to the time difference.